Quantcast
Channel: All Articles & Videos – Gentleman's Gazette
Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 109

Buttons Not Bullets: What Men Wear After War

$
0
0

For centuries, men have used accessories to add personality and refinement to their outfits. But did you know that men’s fashion has seen not one, but TWO major accessories renaissance?

As accessories continue to make a resurgence in modern menswear, let’s explore the history, impact, and lessons from past renaissances and see how they can assist today’s stylish gentleman.

What Does “Menswear Accessories Renaissance” Mean?

A “renaissance” refers to the rebirth of something that was once prominent. In the world of classic menswear, the Accessories Renaissance happened in two distinct periods:

  • After World War I
  • After World War II

Both periods saw a surge in men’s jewelry and accessories, reflecting newfound personal expression after wartime restrictions. Accessories became a way for men to showcase their individuality, adding refinement and personality to their outfits.

Pre-War: Accessories as Practical Essentials

Before these renaissances, accessories served primarily practical purposes.

Illustration of men in tailored suits, hats, and accessories.
In the early 1900s, accessories were an essential part of a gentleman’s wardrobe.

The late Victorian and Edwardian eras (1900s-1910s) were filled with functional yet decorative menswear pieces:

  • Collar studs – Held detachable collars in place.
  • Stick pins – Tamed unruly ascots.
  • Cufflinks and rings – Served as status symbols.
  • Walking sticks – In addition to aiding with walking, some even contained hidden blades!

Men’s fashion was structured and formal, emphasizing precision and elegance. However, World War I changed everything.

Why Did Men Stop Carrying Canes?

World War I: The Decline of Accessories

World War I brought extreme conformity and utilitarianism to menswear. Soldiers abandoned accessories for practicality, while civilians followed suit due to wartime rationing.

World War I soldier in a formal military uniform
During World War I, soldiers adopted strictly utilitarian uniforms.

Relatively drab, simple fabrics became the norm, and accessories were viewed as excessive or even unpatriotic. As formality declined in favor of simple, regulation-friendly attire, many accessories disappeared from everyday wear.

"Great War Over" from a newspaper headline

End of World War I

However, once the war ended, men embraced a revival of personal expression through their wardrobes.

The First Accessories Renaissance: Vibrant 1920s-1930s

After World War I, men embraced accessories as a means of self-expression and luxury, leading to the Roaring Twenties’ bold fashion trends:

  • Colorful bow ties and ascots – Added playful elegance.
  • Pocket squares – Featured intricate, eye-catching folds.
  • Collar jewelry – Introduced sleek, polished refinement.
  • Stick pins – Provided lustrous visual interest to ties.
  • Ornate cufflinks and rings – Offered more ornamentation, with some crafted from materials like teeth!
  • Walking sticks and boutonnieres – Symbols of elegance and refinement.
Vintage advertisements showcasing 1920s and 1930s men's accessories.
During the First Accessories Renaissance, men embraced bold, colorful accessories.

This era aligned with Art Deco aesthetics, celebrating bold designs and high-gloss finishes in gold and platinum. Even during the Great Depression, men invested in accessories, favoring quality over quantity—a principle still relevant in classic menswear today.

Love the style of Boardwalk Empire?

World War II: Another Decline in Accessories

History repeated itself as World War II ushered in another era of minimalism. Accessories became impractical and discouraged, as soldiers wore strictly functional attire with no room for embellishments.

Civilians avoided flashy jewelry as a show of patriotism, while wartime rationing further limited the availability of luxury accessories. However, once the war ended, men embraced accessories once more, eager to reintroduce personality into their wardrobes.

The Second Accessories Renaissance: Clean Lines and Sleek Look of the 1940s-1950s

With the war over, men eagerly embraced stylish accessories as a sign of optimism and celebration:

  • Wider, colorful ties – Featured intricate prints and patterns.
  • Belts replaced suspenders – Allowed for greater individual expression.
  • Tie jewelry (bars, clips, chains) – Brought attention to the chest.
  • Lapel pins – Began competing with boutonnieres for popularity.
  • Signet rings – A revival of a classic status symbol.

This era was further fueled by industrial advancements—accessories became cheaper and easier to produce. Brands like Swank marketed jewelry to the everyday man, shifting menswear accessories from exclusive luxury to widely accessible style.

The Jet Set and Mod styles of the mid-century also influenced accessories:

  • Cufflinks became understated yet elegant.
  • Dress watches were sleek and minimalist.
  • Tie bars and clips focused on function over flashiness.
  • ID bracelets grew in popularity.

The accessories of this period, while more restrained than the 1920s Renaissance, remained essential elements of classic style.

What “Mad Men” Got Wrong

Outfit Rundown

Preston wearing a mid-century-inspired navy suit with classic accessories, including a tie bar, cufflinks, and a white boutonniere.
A mid-century menswear look with a navy suit and classic accessories.

The Jet Set and Mod styles inspire the look I’ve assembled for today’s outfit. I’ve opted for a mid-century aesthetic, wearing a plain two-piece navy suit from Suit Supply, with its only bold feature being its somewhat broad peaked lapels.

My color palette is fairly simple in tones of blue, white, silver, and black. Underneath the suit, I’m wearing a plain white French cuffed shirt from Charles Tyrwhitt. As accents here, I’ve worn a vintage micro patterned tie from Brooks Brothers, also in tones of navy blue, black, and silver. And I’m wearing vintage jewelry, all from Swank. This is a matching set of cufflinks and tie bar.

My shoes are black single monk straps and they feature silver hardware, which harmonizes with the vintage jewelry that I’m wearing. Rounding out the outfit today are accessories from Fort Belvedere, including my socks in navy blue with clock patterns in blue and white, my pocket square in soft gray flannel featuring a white X stitch for contrast, and my boutonniere, which is actually a prototype design, but very similar in composition to our small white carnation boutonniere.

To further the mid-century feel of the outfit, I’m also wearing a vintage watch today. This is a Benrus Series 3081. It’s got a sleek and slim profile, silver hardware, and a black band to match the other elements of my outfit.

Finally here, my fragrance today is Azzurro from the Roberto Ugolini collection, which I appreciate for its light yet distinctive scent.

Navy Socks with Blue and White Clocks in Cotton - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Navy Cotton Socks with Blue & White Clocks

Photo of Roberto Ugolini Azzurro Bottle and Box

Roberto Ugolini

Azzurro Cologne

Soft Light Gray Cotton Flannel Pocket Square with handrolled light gray X-stitch edges - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Gray X-Stitch Edge Soft Gray Flannel Pocket Square

White Carnation Silk Boutonniere Buttonhole Flower Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Mini White Carnation Silk Boutonnière Flower

The 1960s-70s: The “Bling Era” & Decline of Accessories

By the mid-1960s, accessories became flashier and more excessive.

Sammy Davis Jr. in two contrasting images—one in a relaxed black-and-white setting wearing minimal accessories, and another in a vibrant outfit adorned with multiple rings and bold jewelry
Sammy Davis Jr. epitomized the 1960s-70s jewelry craze with bold, statement accessories.

Figures like Sammy Davis Jr. popularized exaggerated looks featuring chunky gold chains, multiple rings, and oversized jewelry. This trend continued through the 1970s, but by the 1980s and 90s, it faded as men embraced minimalist fashion instead.

For a deeper dive into the decline of men’s jewelry

Check this guide!

Why Did Men Stop Wearing Jewelry?

The 2010s-Present: A New Accessories Renaissance?

Since the mid-2010s, there has been a renewed interest in classic accessories. This revival stems from a growing appreciation for vintage fashion, a shift away from overly casual dress, and a renewed focus on craftsmanship in menswear.

Today, we see collar jewelry, tie bars, pocket squares, and signet rings making a comeback—not as a passing trend, but as timeless details that elevate personal style.

3 Lessons from the Accessories Renaissance

Looking at history, we can take three key lessons from past renaissance:

Preston wearing a classic three-piece charcoal gray suit, accessorized with a pocket watch chain, a patterned tie, a pink boutonniere, and a folded pocket square

Accessories are timeless.

Colors, patterns, and jewelry have always been a part of classic style and will continue to be in the future. So in short, don’t be afraid to use them. It’s one of the easiest and most effective ways to build your own personal style.

Raphael showing an example of a costumey look

Intentionality is key.

Be mindful of how you employ your accessories. They should remain an intentional, even if ornamental, component of your look. It’s not very stylish or practical to just pile them on, and an excessive amount can lead to a costumey outfit if not worn confidently, so remain authentic to yourself and your style.

Raphael in a vintage-inspired autumn outfit featuring a brown corduroy jacket, a matching vest, a patterned bow tie, and a pocket square, walking down a tree-lined street with colorful fall foliage

Fashion is cyclical.

The rebirth of a renaissance highlights the cyclical nature of fashions and trends that naturally ebb and flow, even within the world of classic style. What’s hot today might be not tomorrow. So following an overall moderate approach is your best bet for achieving a level of timelessness over appearing too trendy.

Are We on the Cusp of Another Accessories Renaissance?

As classic style enthusiasts embrace traditional menswear details again, we may be witnessing another resurgence. Will men fully return to accessorizing with purpose?

Let us know your thoughts in the comments below!

Frequently Asked Questions

What were the “Accessories Renaissances?”

They were periods after World War I and World War II, respectively, in which men wore more accessories like jewelry than they had previously, with particular types of accessories and styles being typical of each of the periods. 

Why did men’s accessories become popular after the wars?

Following periods of regulation and rationing, there was a shift towards more relaxed and expressive styles. Men sought to showcase individuality, and accessories like hats, pocket squares, and cufflinks became popular for adding personal flair.

How did World War II influence men’s fashion accessories?

Post-World War II, there was an economic boom that led to increased consumerism. Men had more disposable income and were influenced by Hollywood and media, which popularized accessories like tie clips and watches.

What types of accessories became popular during this time?

Popular accessories included fedoras, bow ties, cufflinks, pocket squares, tie clips, and wristwatches. These items allowed men to express their style and status.

Were there any cultural influences on men’s accessories after the world wars?

Yes, with the counterculture throughout the 60s & 70s, accessories were heavily altered from being a more minimalist piece of an outfit to being a maximalist form of self-expression

Did the materials used for accessories change after the wars?

Yes, there was a shift towards more luxurious materials like silk and gold, reflecting the economic prosperity of the post-war era. This allowed for more elaborate and high-quality accessories.

How did men’s accessories reflect societal changes after the wars?

Accessories reflected a move towards individualism and self-expression. They also indicated a shift in societal norms, where men were more open to experimenting with fashion and style.

When Fashion Trends and Classic Style Align

When Fashion Trends & Classic Style Align

Fashion trends and classic style can work together to create a timeless wardrobe!

Why Did Men Stop Wearing Ties (Long Neckties)?

Why Did Men Stop Wearing Ties (Long Neckties)?

Find out why men stopped wearing long ties and how tie styles have evolved over time!

Cover showing two images of Preston: one, looking down while holding his jacket's lapel; two, signaling a thumbs down.

7 Details that Make or Break an Outfit

See how attention to detail separates well-dressed men from the rest!


Viewing all articles
Browse latest Browse all 109

Trending Articles